Genie Screw Drive Garage Door Opener Maintenance Tips:

Garage door openers and garage doors for that matter need to be properly maintained to keep giving excellent service year after year. I find that most people don't really pay that much attention to their garage doors or openers as long as they just keep choogling along... --and I was one of those until I started learning about garage door openers. Not that I don't believe in maintaining things. I know that mechanical devices need maintenance. Garage doors and openers don't have a maintenance reminder like the little sticker they put on your windshield when you get your car oil changed, so it's easy to let it slip right out of mind.
Genie screw drives need a little bit of  lube on the screw itself. Genie recommends ONLY Lubriplate "Aerolube" brand of lithium-based lubricant on the screw itself. The approved method of lubricating the screw is as follows:

1. About once a year, apply a single bead of Aerolube to the screw as it is at rest (not moving) all the way from the motor to the door header.

2. Operate the door normally. The carriage assembly will spread the lubricant more or less evenly as it travels back and forth during normal operations

In this manner, a small tube of Aerolube should last for at least 3 applications. It is good to very low temperatures, so it is fine for those bitter Wisconsin winters, and does not run (drip) in the heat, either. Call 888-519-2391 or visit genie-remotes.net for help in finding the right stuff.

Genie pre-2011 screw drive
carriage assembly

General thoughts on screw drive three-piece rail systems:

Some screw drive systems use a three piece rail, which is more compact, and easier to sell (and carry out) at the big box stores. That means there is a joint where the rail sections are connected. Probably the time where this is important, is when you have a screw drive machine. This is because the screw is also in three pieces. Where the screw sections connect is a joint of some kind. On Genie machines, and I suppose, on any other three-piece rail system, wherever there is a connection, it creates a gap in the screw threads of an inch or so. Genie machines have what is called a clip and collar connection. The collar slides onto the joint in one direction so the scarfed ends can be slipped together. The collar is then slid back the other way to lock the joint together and then the clip is snapped over the bare shaft to keep the collar from sliding back and releasing the joint. Makes a clever connection that holds up under some pretty good stresses. Unfortunately, this connections also means there is no screw threads in that area for the carriage assembly rack to ride in.

Chamberlain replaceable
screw drive rack

The rack is made long enough to bridge that gap with no noticable disruption so long as the teeth on the rack that engage the threads on the screw shaft are complete and relatively unworn. Normal wear and tear, and the occasional jerk or shudder caused by any number of things, may create a failure mode. This could include lack of lubrication on the screw or door rollers, the door hitting some unexpected object during its travels, the torsion springs being broken or not wound properly to balance the door, etc. The teeth on the rack may wear to the point they not longer grab the screw securely. The teeth may shear off due to excessive wear or impact. Any of these things may preclude the rack being able to ride over the 'gap' created by the rail connection. The result is the door hangs up at that point, usually while raising it. Many people think that the cause is a broken screw or bad motor, or some other part failure. If you call 888-346-3173, the helpful folks at garagedoorsupplyco.com will help you determine the root cause so you fix the problem right the first time.

Genie late model
carriage assembly

Fortunately, the fix is a simple and inexpensive one. Replacing the carriage assembly, or the rack (on Chamberlain openers) will get you back in business for pocket change (compared to the cost of replacing the other, more expensive parts that have just been protected by that sacrificial part).

Sometimes those dratted engineers do some good work, don't they!

Personal Gripe Moment: Incidentally, my pet peeve is engineers who go directly from high school to college and graduate with a shiny new engineering degree without any actual work experience at all. These 4 year wonders have no clue whatever about how things go together, and what it's like to repair an over-engineered but under-designed piece of equipment. IMHO, every aspiring engineer-to-be should be required to do hands-on work in their career field before they are allowed to graduate.

Marantec is somewhat of an enigma in the garage door opener world. Marantec is a German designed machine, which if you admire BMW, Porsche, and Mercedes (and VW and Audi), as I do means alot. If so, you will understand that, with typical German engineering prowess, they are innovative, well-built machines, designed for a lifetime of service.

Marantec M3-2312
two button remote control

That being said... They sometimes can be a real pain to work on... not unlike German engineered cars. Programming a new remote is one area that is quite different from other brands. With all other brands I am familiar with, if you have a DIPswitch controlled machine, you can program an unlimited number of remotes, because the code is the same for all machines. You set the remote DIPswitches the same as the gdo's switches (or 'code' settings), and the gdo only 'sees' one remote: they are literally all the same.

With the new, more secure technology, there is a limited memory capacity in the operator (the gdo), of ~7 remote devices (including a wireless keypad). This is because each remote device has a unique identity that must be memorized by the gdo in order for it to authorize granting control of the machine (does that make sense to you?) to that device. That is why the remote device (id) must be programmed into the gdo.

Marantec new-to-new*
programming cable

Marantec's remote control technology allows only one remote device in memory, but it does not use DIPswitches. It uses a relatively complex and unusual programming sequence to memorize the identity of ONE remote control. All subsequent remote devices must be cloned to that first remote.

Additional remote controls are cloned using a short three wire programming cable that plugs into the side of each remote (new remotes come with instructions on which way to connect this cable.

Older Marantec wireless keypads were also programmed using a programming cable. The design has changed, however. Newer wireless keypads are programmed through close proximity to a programmed remote control.

You can find Marantec programming instructions at http://www.garagedoorsupplyco.com/marantec-remotes.html  . If you need help with ordering new remotes, new operators, or other consumables for Marantec, call 888-346-3173 .




* "New-to-new" refers to the version of remote and also means the transmitting frequency is different between the two remotes.  --next blog will discuss the differences.

Marantec Part II: don't ask me how I published part 2 before part 1. Blogs are a new and curious phenomenon to me.

Over the years, Marantec has changed the frequency of its receivers a few times, as have most other gdo manufacturers, in order to avoid radio frequency interference from competing services. Marantec apparently used/uses 40 Mhz in Europe. In America, 40 Mhz is used by either military or aircraft, and so is quite subject to interference in certain areas. Marantec changed its receiver frequency to 390 Mhz to avoid that interference, along with several other major gdo manufacturers, and then to 315 Mhz as did both Genie and Liftmaster. What this means for the user, is that if you have any of the earlier frequency machines, and need a new remote, you will be obligated to use a frequency conversion kit (which is actually an external receiver) to make your machine respond to the currently available 315 Mhz frequency.

Marantec M3-2432
433 Mhz remote control

Marantec M3-2312
315 Mhz remote control

         

IMPORTANT NOTE: Marantec also makes a rare, but not endangered, remote in 433 Mhz. This frequency is commonly needed in the vicinity of large US military bases, because the military uses many different frequencies, but 433Mhz is relatively safe from interference. The biggest problem is that the remotes for 433 Mhz look exactly like the remotes for 315 Mhz. The best part is that Marantec may be the only gdo manufacturer that marks the transmitting frequency on the remote body along with the model number. This makes it relatively easy to determine which frequency system you have. Also note that, although the photos are slightly different sizes, the actual remotes are identical except for the innards, and the nomenclature (label information). If in doubt about which frequency your Marantec operates on, call the experts at garagedoorsupplyco.com by phone at: 888-346-3173. They are happy to assist.

Wayne Dalton machines made by Chamberlain Group:
Liftmaster made machines at one time that were branded with the Wayne Dalton name probably sometime between 1990 and 1997, because some are programmed with DIPswitches or a white, gray, or (old) yellow learn button and some with a green learn button. IF your machine has a part number beginning with "41A..." on the panel where the antenna wire comes from, then your WD was made by Liftmaster, and so one of the Liftmaster remotes can be programmed to your WD operator.

WD branded Liftmaster operator
with DIPswitch programming

(in place of the DIPswitch
location shown to the left)

   

The above illustrated programming methods show programming locations on machines that would use the 61LM remote.

Liftmaster 61LM

Liftmaster 375UT 

Later models of Liftmaster built (but WD branded) machines had a GREEN learn button. The remote that will program that operator is an 81LM. The problem is that Liftmaster no longer makes the 81LM (or the 82LM, or 83LM, depending on how many gdo's you have). The Liftmaster replacement for the 8XLM series (where X is the number of buttons) is the 893 MAX remote which will program to GREEN learn button machines. If you have any questions about which remote to order for your Liftmaster-made WD machine, call 888-346-3173 or visit www.garagedoorsupplyco.com

Liftmaster 893 MAX

Wayne Dalton Garage Door Openers:
Wayne Dalton is no longer in the garage door operator business. That means they no longer make or sell new garage door operators, nor any parts for existing operators, nor do they make or sell any remote control devices for existing machines. (Wayne Dalton still does make garage doors, so no worries there.)
Wayne Dalton put their name on a couple of garage door operators (gdo) that were actually made by someone else. In my first blog post I explained about the Wayne Dalton gdo that was actually made by Challenger, so refer to that post for details.

Then Wayne Dalton put their name on some Chamberlain/Liftmaster gdo's for awhile.

Wayne Dalton (WD) then made their own brand of gdo until a few years ago, when they got completely out of the gdo business. First they made a system with several different models that operated on 303 Mhz, Then, probably because of potential radio frequency interference issues at that frequency, they changed over to 372 Mhz, for the last few years they made gdo's.  You may notice I don't have specific dates for any of this. I could probably research and maybe come with some, but since Wayne Dalton is no longer in the gdo business, they also do not provide any information nor support, so they got as far away from the gdo business as they could. If you call WD and ask about any aspect of gdo's, you will not get muchin the way of help, and certainly NO product.

All is not totally lost, however. Another gdo company saw an opportunity to fill a gap, and bought the rights to produce WD remote devices, and WD safety sensors only. I won't name them because I think they do not associate themselves openly with an ex-competitor. The products they do build and sell are very good quality, so no worry there. The only problem sellers have is getting enough product from them to satisfy demand. That usually means customers have to search to find someone who sells WD remotes, and then often endure a fairly long wait time to receive the product. It is what it is. If you have a WD machine, and need remotes, call the good folks at Garage Door Supply Company at 888-346-3173, or visit them at www.garagedoorsupplyco.com for assistance in ordering.

Liftmaster 387LM Universal ("Magic") Wireless Keypad:
I'm finally getting around to talking more about this keypad. This keypad is the answer to many older garage door opener owners prayers, such as when there is no wireless keypad still in production for your machine. However, it will program to many of today's current machines as well, it is just a bit trickier to program than the keypad designed specifically for your particular brand and model of gdo. Also, it has a slide-up lid, which is different than most. This may be important if you have a location where a flip lid may be subject to abuse. If you have any questions regarding whether this keypad will program to your brand and model of gdo, call my friends at garagedoorsupplyco.com at 888-346-3173

As I mentioned in my December 10th "magic remote" post, the 387LM will program to a variety of different manufacturers because it simulates several different technologies with four unique programming sequences, and transmits on 300/310/315/318/372/390 Mhz simultaneously.

You must choose the programming technology (or programming "type" per instructions to match your receiver technology.

Type 1 is for receivers with three position (or trinary) DIPswitches. That means there is an ON an OFF and a middle or neutral position. Genie 9 DIPSwitch gate operators have trinary switches, but the 9 DIPswitch garage door operators only have the 2-position switches, so would use Type 2 instructions. Allstar uses both binary and trinary switches in otherwise identical-looking remotes, so you must be careful which one you have.

Type 2 is for two position (binary) DIPswitches. This includes Genie 9 and 12 position gdo's. Note that for all the DIPswitch remotes, do not look for any DIPswitches inside the 387LM keypad

Type 3 is for older Liftmaster receivers with gray, white or (old) yellow Learn buttons

Type 4 is used for all other receivers and brands using a Learn button --and which receive signals on one of the frequencies noted above. NOTE: the list of brands which can be programmed to this keypad was on my blog from December 10, 2015 titled: "Liftmaster "magic" remote devices"

Ciao

Liftmaster Gear and Sprocket Installation tips:
Whether or not the gear and sprocket sets come with instructions, here are some tips I highly recommend for installation:
First: Have the garage door in the down position, with the trolley assembly connected to the chain/belt. Unplug the power to the machine powerhead. Then loosen the nut on the chain or belt inner slide, so you can lift the chain or the belt off the sprocket, and have it ready for re-installation. This step ensures that the limit switches will not have to be adjusted too much after installing the new part.

Second: remove about 4 screws from the motor case and remove it. You may have to remove other parts, like possibly lens covers to be able to do this, it just depends on your machine. Once the case is removed, you can reach up inside the machine and remove the ~3-4 screws holding the gear and sprocket top cap on. At that point you can just push the gear set up and out of the machine.

Third: Take the gear and sprocket assembly out of the bag, with any associated bushings  you should replace.

chain drive gear set, showing
the optional and not recommended
wormgear to the right

--CAUTION: My recommendation: unless the wormgear on your machine is visibly damaged, leave the new, included wormgear (shown at middle right in the photo)  in the package. It is very difficult to re-align this gear to properly engage the nylon drive gear if it has been removed. If it is not re-aligned perfectly, it will bind up within a few inches while raising or lowering the door, and then must be disassembled to try-try again.--     if you have any questions about whether or not you NEED to change the worm gear, call www.liftmaster-store.com at 1-888-880-8821.

Fourth: take the tube of included lubricant and spread the lube liberally in the teeth of the new nylon drive gear. --NOTE: lubricating the new drive gear is critical to ensuring a long life to that assembly--  Drop the new, lubricated gearset down into the opening, and get it properly aligned with the worm gear and limit switch. Re-install the screws into the cover, tighten equally. Plug the machine in again.

Fifth: Operate the door and adjust the limit switches as needed so the door opens fully, and closes just to the ground. You are done!!