Now on to the various Genie DIPswitch machines. The Genie master remote has 12 DIPswitches, which are trinary or 3-position switches. The reason they are trinary is to accommodate the Genie DIPswitch gate operators. All of the Genie 9 or 12 DIPswitch garage door operators have two position DIPswitches, so if that is what you are programming to, you have to be careful to make sure that ALL switches you are setting are moved from the middle or neutral position they are shipped in. If you have a 9 switch machine, switch positions 10, 11, and 12 will remain in the neutral position. Confused yet? Me too. Let's look at each machine separately, and whichever machine you have. just focus on that type, okay?

Genie Remote Controls, Master Remote, continued:
NOTE: For all Genie garage door operators, every time you have a failed programming attempt with the GM3T-BX Master Remote (only), regardless of which type of Genie machine you are trying to sync to, you will need to stop, press the "A" button, then press the button on the front of the remote you have been trying to program 3 times. This is done to re-set the remote button to the start setting so it can be more easily programmed, and so you don't end up in Never-Never Land. In order to be sure you buy the correct remote for your Genie opener, find your operator's model number and call the experts at 888-519-2391, or visit them at http://genie-remotes.net/genie-remotes.html


Genie Gate Operator:  These machines use a 9 DIPswitch 3-position switch, so each individual switch may be in the "+" or "On" position; the "0" or neutral position; or the "-" or "Off" position. Of course, switches 10-12 will be in the "0" position, always for these machines.
1) Set the 9 switches to match those on the operator first.
2) Press the "B" button inside the remote battery compartment, so the amber light starts to blink.
3) Since there is no learn code button, there is no step for that
4) Press and release the button you wish to program. Repeat up to 4 times, and the gate should operate. If not, double check your switch settings, re-set the remote as noted above, and repeat steps 2) and 4).

Genie 9 DIPswitch garage door Operator:  These machines use a 9 DIPswitch 2-position switch, so each individual switch from 1-9 will be in the ON or OFF positions only, and switches 10-12 will be in the neutral position only.
1) Set the 9 switches to match those on the operator first.
2) Press the "D" button inside the remote battery compartment, so the amber light starts to blink.
3) Since there is no learn code button, there is no step for that
4) Press and release the button you wish to program. Repeat up to 4 times, and the door should operate. (remember to start with the door in the down or closed position). If not, double check your switch settings, re-set the remote as noted above, and repeat steps 2) and 4).

Genie 12 DIPswitch garage door Operator:  These machines use a 12 DIPswitch 2-position switch, so each individual switch from 1-12 will be in the ON or OFF positions only. No DIPswitches will be in the neutral position.
1) Set the 12 switches to match those on the operator first.
2) Press the "C" button inside the remote battery compartment, so the amber light starts to blink.
3) Since there is no learn code button, there is no step for that
4) Press and release the button you wish to program. Repeat up to 4 times, and the door should operate. (remember to start with the door in the down or closed position). If not, double check your switch settings, re-set the remote as noted above, and repeat steps 2) and 4).

There you have it, boys and girls. Easy-breezy, no? Remember, if at first you don't succeed, have patience and try, try again. Most likely, it will work the first time if you follow the easy steps above, and use the correct programming method for your Genie operator.

Genie Remote Controls:
I am interrupting my discourse on Liftmaster garage door openers because I need a break for a day, want to keep you hanging on, and because I am thinking of Genie with the light... red blinking light (hmm, I don't think I have much of a future as a poet)....

Genie remotes have different generations, much like, but different from, Liftmaster. Therefore, they are not cross-compatible, even though they use some of the same frequencies. Caveat: see my continuation of Liftmaster next week for two glaring exceptions to all my compatibility rules thus far.

The most enigmatic of the Genie remotes in current production is the "Master Remote", the GM3T-BX. It is called the master remote because it can effectively be programmed to Genie garage door operators made from at least the late 1980s to today. Because it is so versatile, it is necessarily trickier than most other remotes to program. It will program to Genie garage door openers (gdo's), that have 9 two-position DIPswitches, to 9 three-position DIPSwitches on Genie Gate operators, to 12 two-position DIPswitches on gdo's, and also to the various Intellicode rolling code versions. Therefore, you must carefully follow the instructions for the specific operator that you have in order to achieve success. Gary at garagedoorsupplyco.com has posted some great instructions online, along with a utube video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qzMBdxey0HI  where he goes visually through the steps to program which is really great for those of us who are visually oriented. In my blog I am going to just use simple descriptions and sometimes pictures to try to contribute to the overall knowledge base available for this 'supercharged' Genie remote. First of all, this remote transmits on two different frequencies. It transmits on 315 Mhz when you press the button one time. The next time it transmits on 390 Mhz, and just alternates every time. So, if your door doesn't open the first time you press the button, press it again to make sure you have sent on the correct frequency for your machine.

GM3T-BX
the Genie Master Remote

Let's start with the intellicode programming, in order to build a base for understanding the other methods:
First: Open the back of the remote control -- this applies to ALL programming methods on this remote!
If there is plastic slip under the battery terminal, remove it so the remote will have power. Make sure the battery stays in the holder.

Inside the back of the remote you will see at the top, a 12 three-position DIPswitch which we will discuss later. It is not used for programming intellicode machines. Then below that a curved strip of tape with A, B, C, D on it. Underneath these letters are small switches. These switches select the programming method. For intellicode machines, the "A" switch is the only one we will be concerned with.
Below the tape switches in the battery, rests a commonly found CR2032 lithium watch-type cell. To the bottom right of the battery is a small amber LED. When any one of the above switches is pressed, this light will blink for about 30 seconds, indicating that the remote is in programming mode for the selected method or technology.

Three steps are required to program to Intellicode machines: 1) selecting the "A" button; 2) pressing the "learn code" button on the garage door operator; and then 3) pressing the selected button on the front of the remote. Let me give the details:

back of remote with battery cover removed

1) selecting the "A" button:  press "A" until the amber light inside the remote starts to blink. If it doesn't, press a bit harder. If that doesn't work, check the contact fingers on the battery to make sure they are bent down enough to make good contact. Once the light starts to flash, move immediately to the next step
2) press the "learn code" button on the garage door operator: Do NOT hold this button down for more than about a second or you run the risk of erasing the memory. Most programming mistakes occur where one remote is being programmed and all the other remotes previously programmed to it quit working. This is due to holding the learn code button too long. After about six seconds, the memory on the operator is erased, and no other remote devices will work until they are re-programmed to the machine.
3) press the selected button on the front of the remote:  The master remote has three buttons on the front, with a small LED cleverly hidden between the middle and bottom buttons. --If you have one or two garage doors to program to, I recommend the top and/or middle buttons. The bottom button is pre-programmed to Genie's short-lived Intellicode Series III system, and doesn't work without switching modes on any other series or even the DIPswitch models. To determine what mode you remote is in at any time, especially if you have been having trouble getting the remote to work suddenly, press the button you have been using (after it has been programmed) for a few seconds and check the LED between the buttons. If the light is solid red, while holding the button, you are in intellicode mode. If it is blinking red, you are in DIPswitch mode. If it should be green, you are in Series III mode. Should you find your button in the wrong mode, hold the button down for up to about 15 seconds, and it should change mode. You may have to repeat the process until you get into the correct mode.-- ANYWAY, on to the instruction: You have selected the "A" button, and immediately pressed and released the "learn code" button,. Press your selected button on the front of the remote and release it. Repeat this last step up to four times within 30 seconds, until the door operates. BTW, it is wise to start with your garage door in the down position. This ensures a best chance at verifying the programming as opposed to being confused by other potential problems, such as safety sensor malfunctions, which have confounded many customers. Ask me about that if you have questions....
Well, this has gone on long enough, so I will have to talk about the B,C, and D buttons next time, and further revelations on Liftmaster next week.

Have a Happy Thanksgiving, everyone, and remember to thank God for all the blessings we enjoy as Americans, not the least of which is our right to thank God personally every day for all He does for us. May He continue to bless us and keep us FREE, and may we never forget He is the Creator.

Chamberlain / Liftmaster Remotes: continued (Part IV):
Today we get to discuss the Liftmaster (new) YELLOW learn button machine.  [Aside: I call it the "(new) YELLOW" learn button to differentiate it from the earlier hybrid yellow learn button machine which was used until 1993, with the 6Xlm remote control, which had DIPswitches and programmed to either the 8 or 9 DIPswitch machines or the (old) yellow, gray, or white learn button machines]

I am excited about the (new) YELLOW learn button machines, which have been produced since 2011, because there are some real advantages for technically savvy owners. First let me describe the technology, then I will talk about how to take advantage of the new features.

(new) YELLOW learn button Logic Board
Note the 'round' learn button  in the upper right

The YELLOW learn button machines' receivers receive on 310/315/390 Mhz simultaneously for increased reliability, but YELLOW learn button machines are not compatible with either the purple (315 Mhz) nor the red/orange (390 Mhz) learn button remotes, and vise-versa. There are some exceptions that I will talk about later, but for now assume that the various colors of learn buttons (which, if you remember, identify the different generations or technologies Liftmaster has used) are NOT interchangeable. To further help identify the generation, the antenna wire which hangs down below the machine is colored the same as the learn button; and many people I talk to can identify the purple or yellow antenna wire colors. Most earlier generation antenna wires seem to appear to be black or gray, maybe because of age, dust,  poor lighting, etc., so don't depend on what color the antenna wire looks like, unless it is clearly identifiable. The remote controls for the YELLOW learn button machines are in the 8XXLM family, such as the 891LM, the 893LM, and the 877LM keypad. Please do not confuse the LM version with another series of remotes, which begin with 8XX, but end in MAX instead of LM. More about those next time....

891LM

One big advantage of the YELLOW learn button machines is that they can be programmed via the available smart wall console/ control panel, which avoids having to climb up on a step-stool or ladder to find the button on the overhead machine. The wall consoles are currently available in six models, with varying features. They are 88XLM wall consoles. All of these models include the basic open/close button, with a separate light on/off switch for the garage door operator light, and a "vacation" switch that can lock out all remote devices programmed to open the door. The 882LM is the base model with these features. Other models have additional useful features as well.

880LM deluxe Wall Console / Control Panel

Note, the 883LM is the only single function push-button open/close switch that will work with the (new) YELLOW learn button machines, older garage door single feature buttons will not work.

883LM

The 78LM or wireless 378LM also work but without the advanced features of the MyQ technology.

The YELLOW learn button machines are compatible with Liftmaster's MyQ technology, which is where they really shine. MyQ allows the user to monitor and control the garage door operator from anywhere, and securely using your smartphone, tablet, or computer, with a free program provided and supported by Liftmaster. (Depending on the model of your operator, you may need an internet gateway and/or other accessories to take advantage of this technology.) My friends at Garagedoorsupplyco.com can help you select the correct accessories to take advantage of your (new) YELLOW learn button garage door opener, or even get you an entire new belt or chain drive machine, if it is time to replace your existing ancient relic.

Next time, I want to talk about remotes and possible compatibilities between Liftmaster remote controls. Stay tuned....

Chamberlain / Liftmaster Remotes: continued (Part III)
The latest versions of the Liftmaster "rolling code" technology use a purple or a (new) yellow learn button. Let me describe the characteristics of the PURPLE learn button technology:

PURPLE learn button Logic board

The PURPLE learn button machines receive on 315 Mhz, rather than the earlier 390 Mhz. This new frequency has been determined to be somewhat less susceptible to outside signal interference. Every time the remote transmitter button is pressed, a different code is sent to the receiver, as before. The reason it has a PURPLE learn button is to differentiate it from the red learn button machines, because the remote transmitters operate on different frequencies, and thus are not compatible. The PURPLE learn button machines were made beginning in 2005 and are still currently made. Remotes made for the PURPLE learn button display this symbol:     They are in the 37XLM family, i.e.,  371LM, 373LM, and 377LM wireless keypad. Of course, being currently in production, these are all still available.

371LM remote transmitter

377LM wireless keypad

   
If you want to compare any of these remotes to yours, visit www.liftmaster-store.com . They have great prices and nationwide delivery. They conveniently have the various remotes listed by the technology and/or the color of learn button to make it easy for customers to find the correct remote control. : )

Next time I will talk about the latest Liftmaster 'flagship' technology, the (new) yellow learn button.

971LM

Red learn button logic board panel

Chamberlain / Liftmaster Remotes: continued (Part II):
Last post I talked about two earlier versions of Liftmaster receiver technology. This time I want to move to the next generation of remote controls, the "rolling code" technology, called "Security +". This version is identified on the powerhead by a RED or ORANGE square button, located above the antenna wire. This technology was used on machines made by Liftmaster between 1997 and 2005. This machine uses the 97XLM series of remotes, of which the 971LM is still available.

With the rolling code technology, every time the user presses the programmed button on the remote, a different code is transmitted to the receiver. When the remote is programmed, the receiver memorizes the identity of the remote, so the code doesn't matter. What this random code generation does, is prevent some potential thief with a scanner from learning the code of your operator, and cloning that code to use to get into your garage. The RED learn button machines receive on the same 390 Mhz, but as you can see, the technology is different than either the green learn button or the yellow/white/gray//DIPswitch technology I talked about yesterday, because both the transmitter and the receiver have to 'speak' the same language, so to say, in order to communicate.

Not only are the newer technology (post DIPswitch) remotes easier to program, but they are more secure. The only drawback is that there is a limit to the memory capacity of the powerhead of only 7 remote devices (for residential operators). This means that unless or until you specifically erase all devices from the memory in your learn button machine, any remote devices, including wireless keypads, will stay in memory, even if they wear out or get lost or stolen. If you reach the maximum memory limit, either the receiver will refuse to accept a new remote device or it may randomly kick out previously programmed devices to make room for the new one. That is one area where the older DIPswitch machines have both an advantage and disadvantage: Virtually any number of compatible remotes can be programmed by DIPswitch to open a garage door or gate, which is great for gated communities for instance. The downside is that you can't realistically limit the number of remotes which can be programmed in order to control who has access.

Erasing the memory of any of the 'new' technology machines is very easy --maybe too easy in some cases: When you press the smart button, also known as the learn button, learn code button, or program button on the powerhead, while programming a new remote device, you must only press that button for about a second; just long enough for the indicator light to come on. If you hold that same button for 6-10 seconds or more, the memory is erased and NO remote devices held in memory  in that machine will work... until you RE-program them into the machine, using the correct instructions for your remote device.

Okay, that's enough blather for today. Next time we will attempt to get to the newest Liftmaster technologies, using the purple and (new) yellow learn buttons. Remember to check out www.Liftmaster-store.com for any new remotes you may need for the technologies we have discussed. Also, hopefully next time we can talk about the newest Liftmaster technologies, the purple and (new) yellow learn buttons machines.

Here's a hint for owners of Stanley dipswitch programmed openers using the 1050 remote:

For some reason, the dipswitches in the Stanley 1050 remote are marked "Open" on one side, and "Closed" on the other side. A logical person might think that 'Open' means the circuit is completed when the switch is moved to that side, right? Not so fast! The terms 'Open' and 'Closed' are electronic terms, so 'Open' means the circuit is open, (imagine a knife switch being moved up, away from the contacts),  as in the switch is NOT making a path for electricity. "Closed" means the circuit (imagine a knife switch being moved down, touching the contacts on the other side of the circuit so it makes a path for electricity) is actually ON. In short, OPEN = OFF or "-" as some other dipswitches are marked. CLOSED = ON or "+" for the opposite mode. This marking has caused confusion among many Stanley garage door opener owners trying to program their 105015 remote transmitter
.

Always carefully check the switch positions on the overhead machine (the powerhead, as it is called), and note which is "off" and which is "on" so you can correctly set the switches in the remote to match the circuit settings. garagedoorsupplyco.com provides free customer technical support on all remotes and for other parts they sell.

Stanley 105015 remote showing "OPEN" direction, which means "off" or "-" on
other types of DIPswtiches.

standard type DIPswitch showing "ON"
or "+" position which equals the "CLOSED" position
on Stanley DIPswitches

Today I learned something about Wayne Dalton Wizard (Challenger) garage door openers: Some of them can use the Multi-Code remote control, because the internal (built-in) receiver in the machine uses a frequency of 300 Mhz, and programs with 10 dipswitches. Hooray for those lucky souls who have a Wayne Dalton 2113 or 2115 that can use the Multi-Code transmitters (remote controls).

Unfortunately, there are many of those Wayne Dalton model 2113 or 2115 machines that use a different frequency that is unsupported by any current remote control manufacturers that I am aware of. There is hope for those owners, however: Multi-Code makes what is called an 'external' receiver that by-passes the internal receiver and still operates the garage door. When one of these is attached to the model 2113 or 2115 operating on a different frequency from 300 Mhz, the same Multi-Code remote control transmitter can then be used and programmed to the new external receiver, so it will open that garage door.

This is good news for those owners since they now can continue to use those older machines until they wear out. My friends at garagedoorsupplyco.com , an online wholesaler, can set you up with either option at a fantastic price.